The last hoorah - well almost

It’s been a frenetic couple of weeks. So much coming and going in the house, first the arrival of the Chief Nurse of Western Australia and her son, and the GHAWA Project Director.   Two men overturned the “girlie” status of the house - in a nice way! 

 

The last breakfast!!

 

We’ve had the TV on for the first time in at least 7 weeks - for news. We haven’t really been concerned about the goings on of the world up to now (actually we still aren't - those wretched warnings we receive about problems travelling in Africa are more than sufficient) and certainly haven’t had time for the box, apart from one movie night.  We headed to Stone Town in Zanzibar while Mark spent the weekend doing what Program Directors have to do - work. He was here to meet the right people for the continuance of the program and to ensure the final arrangements for the opening of the GHAWA classroom at the Muhimbili Advanced School of Nursing and Midwifery on the 4^thDecember, the one in which we have been teaching the Muhimbili midwives since arriving in Tanzania.

 

He was at the airport to meet us and suggested that before going home we should go to the Kilamanjaro Hotel that overlooks the ferry terminal to watch the sunset.  It was magnificent.  We heard the news that Brodie never made it on to the mountain.  He got sick before even starting but that his mother was walking for them both. What a woman!

 



 View from the top

 

The intrepid mountaineers returned intact and ready for the next adventure.

On Sunday morning we headed to Kariokoo Market. This is THE place to go, to mingle with the wananchi ("citizens") explore the myriad stalls. We had expected to find trinkets to take back as gifts to Australia however this wasn’t the case.  However the ladies did purchase 10 pairs of sandals at Tsh 15000 each thanks to my colleague’s great bargaining skills.  Skills honed during her time living in Hong Kong. We were able to get a little Swahili repartee going too. Most of which I have to admit to not understanding. We were mesmerised by a gang of workers breaking rocks, piling them in buckets (the older men) while the younger men literally ran with them on their heads to an enormous cement mixer, and another group carried the buckets wet cement on their heads up the planks into a building.  What awesome physiques they all had.

 



By the time we were ready to go home I was already in my own private swimming pool, only far less refreshing.  I was however very satisfied with my sandals.  Even if they only last one wear - they are gorgeous.

We were all up with the crows and the mosque early morning call to prayers, for work on Monday. A new course at Muhimbili Hospital. Bright informed us that the start time was only 10:00 so we continued with work at home. Misinformation Africa style, not his fault. The participants were waiting for us - since 08:30. Fortunately they are very forgiving.

 

I went in search of a friend of a friend of my sisters (what a mouthful). She and her husband had been robbed and beaten up in Mbezi Beach area. She sustained a broken leg and glass cuts. Now Muhimbili is an enormous campus. I must have walked its length about 4 times and looked through several registers before finding there were no mzungus in the designated ward. It seems she had been transferred from the Orthopaedic ward to the Disability Hospital not far from our house and from there, and in traction, sent home. Zanzibar Beach Resort had returned to haunt me. Semmy to the rescue. I stayed in bed for 2 more days and with a bit of self diagnosis (plus that of my learned colleagues), commenced antibiotics and hey presto felt better by Thursday. Who needs a doctor??

 

 

A gift from Stone Town and Prison Island Zanzibar

It was a last minute decision to make a trip over to Stone Town. I wasn't going to go as I have really blown the budget since being here but can't account for it in any meaningful way.  Last time we had been advised to avoid certain areas because of some unrest but everything seemed to have settled down.  The lure was too strong.

 

We set off early on Saturday morning. A 20 minute flight, quick zip through the offialdom of the airport (mzungus need their passports even though  its the same country) and a 10 minute taxi ride and we were at our "boutique" hotel, the Maru Maru near the Old Fort.

Narelle co-piloting!

Foyer of Maru Maru Hotel

The Old Fort

I am in the company of seasoned shoppers. Without any delay we were off down the side streets looking for bargains. You'd have to look hard for original stuff however eagle eyes were busy. By lunch time I'd had enough as it was raining although not cold. We found a small vegetarian Indian cafe that served delicious samosas, roti and pilau, then I headed back to the hotel to put my feet up.

 

My friends returned with lots of trinkets and a couple of very nice dresses each.  Here I have to say they are both the ideal body shape for clothes.

 

Doing the wild Africa look and modelling one of the dresses.

 



They purchased some beads and with them got the story of how the young girls are prepared for marriage along with some interesting demonstrations it would seem. This extended to the life story of the shop keeper (who complimented Terri on her great bum).

 

 Mutual delight with purchases

 

The Terrace Bar and  Restaurant advertised happy hour cocktails. It was nearly finished but we thought we'd have time for one and to watch the sun set.

 

Sunset from the hotel rooftop

 

Tanzanians seem extraordinarily fond of sugar.  The waitress thought it a little odd that our cocktails should contain less than half the amount  they would normally.  However they were delicious.

 

While we were there we got chatting to 2 young ladies holidaying from Oman.  They were having shisha and invited us to try.  The fruity flavour was yummy but the smoke was as bad as a cigarette.

Bliss

 

 New friends from Oman

 

Ali's very beautiful daughter (from Zanzibar)

 

A couple of cocktails merrier and rather hungry we headed off to the night market in case there was something good to eat. We were advised by our new friends to be cautious as some of the food may have been there for several days.

 



 It looked and smelt delicious

We placated ourselves with some paratha

 

We decided to err on the side of caution and headed back to the Terrace for dinner before retiring for the night.

 

There was no lying in, as Terri and I had organised a Prison Island tour for Sunday morning. It was a quick breakfast on the terrace again with early morning harmonies from the Islamic girls school below us.

 

Prison Island is also known as Quarantine Island or Changuu Island.  It takes about 30 minutes by a motorised fishing boat to get there. It seemed very reasonable at US$15 each and Tsh4000 entrance fee. 

  

 

 The boats for transfer to the islands

 

 Our guide

  

Lone fisherman

 

The island was used by the Sultan as a prison for rebellious slaves in 1860s and also functioned as a coral mine. It was later purchased by the British who built a prison complex there. No prisoners were ever housed on the island and instead it became a quarantine station for yellow fever cases.

 

 

 Island resort - off season. No tourists

 

It is now owned by the government who use it as a tourist resort.  Its main claim to fame is the collection of endangered Aldabra Giant Tortoises.  The original pair were a gift from the British governor of the  Seychelles.

 



 Fareaway land

 

 Busy

 

In action

 

 Ages painted on their backs

 

 The one on the right is 189 years old.  The shell looked a tad worn

 

 Big boy

 

 "on your marks ....."

 

Heavy youngster

 

The prison is now part of the resort and has a restaurant situated in the outer courtyard and small bar inside.

 The Prison

 

 Original door

 

 Reminded me of the Roundhouse in Fremantle

 

The Sultan

 

 His queen

 

 

Chained and flogged

 

 Out to mustering area

 

 Boat mooring area

 

 Market run

 

 Way out



 

It started to rain again on the trip back. Narelle, who had been heading down to the Zanzibar Beach Resort was still waiting for the taxi when we returned, so we all went. It was close to the airport and had hardly a sole around. Most definetly not the tourist season.  We found a nice spot to relax with a book for a time before locating the restaurant.  I made a bit of a poor choice here and ordered a seafood salad.  You think ocean front - fresh seafood.  Not its not tourist season maybe the food's not fresh! I have been paying for it ever since.  Today I have started on antibiotics and will hope for the best.

 

Just up the road was the International School which was having a craft fare.  Every ex-pat on the island must have been there.  We saw Ali's daughter there.  This time with her mother, a very talented photographer and the first female to do this on the island. 

 



Talented artist

 



All good things come to an end and we had to collect our bags and head back to the airport, but not before a final view of the water.

 



                     Leaping off the wall into shallow water

 

 

Gardens in front of the Palace of Wonders

 

 Defence?

 

And...... a quick trip to one of the shops. After all its work on Monday.

 









Penultimate course has drawn to a close

Teaching in Dar es Salaam has been a growth experience for me and my colleagues.  It has been challenging, sheer hard work, awe inspiring and great fun. The penultimate couse has been at Kairuki University Hospital (private) with half the participants from Mwananyamala Hospital (government).  A marked contrast in the locations and facilities.

Kairuki University Hospital

View from the classroom (7th floor board room)

Restricted space for teaching practical stuff

We were allocated the board room on the 7th floor for teaching the group of 13 midwives. Not the best choice for doing practical work, but we adapt.  What was a killer was the fact that the lift was rarely working and when it was we were reluctant to use it in case it stopped while we were inside.  High humidity and the climb with all our equipment guaranteed I was completely saturated by the time we started.  Additionally the airconditioner was out of action.

 Estimating blood loss

 

Lightness did really well but no-one got the 4th amount

As with the previous courses we also went into the clinical areas with the participants.  Terri and Narelle took 7 to Mwananyamala and I managed 6 at Kairuki,. I did get the chance to go Mwananyamala once bearing gifts for the labour ward - a pulse oximeter for the babies that I was able to demonstrate on a baby, and successfully manage to reduce the amount of oxygen being blasted up the poor child's nose, plus a resuscitation bag and mask and clothes for the neonatal ward. 

 Gifts for the neonatal ward at Mwananyamala

 

 

 

 

Mothers were excited but the babies unimpressed with the new bonnets

Participants happy to show us their wards

We had the opportunity to provide some education to the doctors which went very well indeed.  I think we need a doctor on our team so our message really gets to all the health team.

 

The board room was required for other purposes so our last 2 days we were provided a classroom on the 5th floor.  The downside was no working electric socket or air conditioning.  No problem, a number of extensions and powerboards and electricity was produced from another office.

 



Much roomier

The participants presented their case studies on Friday, telling us how they will use the information / knowledge they have gained to best advantage for the women and babies in their care.  This part of the program has produced some real surprises and challenges but we were so excited when two of the women demonstrated to us allowed a woman to birth in a different position with great success.  We were so excited by their enthusiasm and quite overcome by emotion. I could have cried I was so happy.

 

As with each course we have our identified champions to take our message to the clinical areas.  However if we can make even a slight positive impression on all of them they may be more inclined to use the information we have provided.

 

Aveline

 

Maria

 

Elizabeth

 

Grace - a real champ as she was also on night duty

 

Aurelia

 

Chiku

 

Singing has been a great part of each group.  We have loved the fact the each group has sung for us. They have such awesome voices and harmonising skills.