Thursday, 20 December 2012

Waterlogged

 I love London....

"Why, Sir, you find no man, at all intellectual, who is willing to leave London. No, Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford."
— Samuel Johnson
I have loved London for a very long time. When my husband and I first moved to London in 1978, I was desperately homesick for the first 6 months, but that passed. There after I found it a vibrant, exciting place to live and despite the most awful bedsitters we were able to go to the theatre, concerts and pubs, and travel fairly cheaply as well.  I was quite sad to leave 4 years later. However my sister now lives in Southbank near Upper Ground. It has been a bonus for me to be able to visit her on a regular basis. 
Modern Broadwall
 

View from the balcony
London Eye from the balcony
 Outside the British Film Industry Building

She lives in an amazing historic area - one of the oldest settlements of London.  Prior to the 19th Century much of the area was marshland. Lower Marsh Street is a rememberance to that time. Around the time of the original Roman settlements, banks of earth were erected along the south side of the Thames in order to keep out the tidal waters and to hold them in check. One of them near the river was called Narrow Wall whilst another binding the marsh to the east was called Broad Wall, an ancient raised road which followed the line of Lambeth Marsh. Upper Ground is the oldest thoroughfare in Christ Church parish. It is the descendant of the path which from the Norman period, and perhaps earlier, ran along the inside of the embanking river wall; and it still retains the narrowness and the twists and turns characteristic of a country lane. At the west end Upper Ground extended, as it still does, to Broadwall. 

During the Tudor and early Stuart periods, and perhaps earlier, the King's Barge House occupied the piece of land to the north-west of Upper Ground. The Barge House is commemorated in the narrow alley leading out of Upper Ground and over steps to a landing stage on the river strand—the successor of the "stairs near the Barge House".

I saw that recent building excavations at Borough Market have revealed a number of Roman artifacts and dwellings. I love the fact that these have to be preserved and incorporated in some way onto the modern buildings.



Borough Market


The Shard
Shard in the distance
Southbank in the background

The residents of this area prior to the 19th Century must have had very wet feet. At this stage I can almost appreciate how they feel. It has rained fairly extensively since I arrived here, and unfortunately for a number of areas has resulted in flooding. I have always said I prefer cold weather as it is easier to get warm than it is to cool off. However I have discovered that I haven't found a way of getting the right degree of warmth. It's cold and wet outside but always boiling hot inside - why does everyone insist on having the heating up so high? The buses, underground, trains, shops, pubs etc turn the warm protective clothing into a sauna. It takes the pleasure out of shopping too. All the beautiful tempting purchases (clothes) become very unappealing when it involves having to strip off what seems like a million layers of clothing, some of which are decidely damp, in mostly communal change areas, only to have to redress in now cool damp clothes.

Dressing for the cold

Still it is lovely despite wet feet. The Christmas lights are beautiful.  It does feel so much more "Christmassy" when it's cool.

Lights in Regency Street

Christmas decorations in Carnaby Street


Last few hours

I joined the boys back at the hotel for my final night in Dar es Salaam. I simply can't understand why there seems to be more in my suitcases now than when I first arrived. I have hardly bought a thing and have left so much behind. I am hoping that my husband can take some of it back to Australia as I am now off to England.We had a quiet evening and relatively early night. 

There were a few hours free on the last morning. We had a leisurely stroll down to the beach.  I was saturated by the time we got back to the hotel.

Eish!
 
The National Museum was close to the hotel and as we still had a bit of time we went in.

Masai carvings at the entrance to the museum
 
It has an air of genteel neglect and initailly we only saw one other visitor. The Museum houses the fossil discoveries from Olduvai Gorge as well as a mishmash of objects, photos and yellowing documents depicting the years of slavery, colonialism and the anti-colonial struggle.
 
 Statue of slaves carrying an elephant tusk (it was real)
 

The neighbourhood
 
At last it was time to leave.  The taxi ride to the airport was less adventurous than previously experienced but still involved a lot of hooting and lane swapping.  We arrived at Dar airport in good time and the GHAWA team were close behind so I was able to say a final farewell.  So sad this journey is complete.  I would love to do this again.
 
The plane to Dubai was packed.  It seems the ground staff had done their level best to ensure every family member and friend did not sit together so chaos reigned!!
 
In Dubai my son and I said goodbye to my husband who was returning to Perth due to work committments while we were heading to the UK and the next adventure.
 


So little time so much to do!

Countdown. Last week and there is so much that "needs" to be do.
 
Dinner at Addis on Dar was a an awesome experience. The food is presented on a very large crepe platter and you are provided with crepe rolls - rather like bandages to gather up the food. Sounds awful, looks like nothing on earth but wasn't in the least.  Although not not everyone liked eating with bandages.



 Brodie had his birthday last week - he was ill poor lad. So this was a celebration as well.

 
 
 
Next of course was the Christmas Carols at the National Museum by the Dar Choral Choir. IWhat a wonderful rendition of the Hallelujah Chorus. We had the funniest home videos moment when the photographers knocked over the stage Christmas tree. They made it worse by trying desperately to put it back together. I was laughing so hard I forgot to keep the camera on them.

 
 
After the show we had a delicious meal at the Serena Hotel - the calamari was to die for.... I was going to be thin at the end of this trip. No such luck!
 

 
Swahili Fashion week is held in Dar. A must I am told - and my very first fashion show. It was almost an hour late in starting.  Wasn't sure if this was trendy thing or just Africa time? I was fascinated how petulant the models looked. Overall a very good standard.
 

 
 One incredibly loud jacket for the occassion
 

 
 
Semmy the GHAWA driver runs a boxing school on Coco Beach at Oyster Bay. He really wanted us to see him in action.  Apparantly the beach had been closed at one time following the attacks of a shark. It's now open but we didn't see anyone swimming.
 



 
 
 
 
 

 
 
Exhausted!
 
Naturally it's important to sustain ourselves afterward. We have an agreement to each lose a set amount of weight by our mutual birthday.

 
There was still an iota of time to shop.  Back to TingaTinga.  I wanted a couple of small paintings for my sister, and to exchange the Muhimbili picture.
 
 Sidetracked with DVDs
 
 Fascinating witchcraft picture
 
 My philosophy since being in Tanzania
 
 Ice cream and cocktails at Seacliff


I don't think we were supposed to shop. The dresses weren't ready and I left the paintings somewhere - probably in the bajaj. We decided that there ought to be bajaj taxis everwhere even if they do eat our shopping!
 
 
The new bajaj driver!
 
Bright called to say his mother and sisters were in the city from Arusha and would like to meet us. Out to eat again - we decided to take them to Zuane, an Italian restaurant we'd been to a few days earlier with all the Perth nursing students and their supervisors. His mother was quite wide eyed at the experience.  It was going to be a quiet night in, but it was nice to meet them.

I'm sure there is still so much to do but time in Tanzania really is coming to an end. I'm really going to miss it.



 

 
 

Wednesday, 12 December 2012

Going going ........

My husband arrived last Sunday to climb Mt Meru (his 60th birthday gift / challenge).  The biggest (best) surprise for me when I got to the hotel was my son.  The pair of them had kept this a secret for almost a year. It was fantastic.  I think it was pretty surreal for my son to be in Africa again.  It’s been over 12 years since his last visit and is quite different to the Africa he has experienced in the past.
 
We attempted to head back to Msasani Village for dinner with the GHAWA team. The taxi driver first tried the coast road, but the traffiki was way too heavy so a quick u-turn and we tried via the main road.It took us 45 minutes to travel 0.5km.The taxi then mounted the pavement and drove another 500m along the footpath before re-joining the queue– i.e. pushing in at the intersection. Pedestrians are obviously used to this interesting technique as they "politely" stepped out of the way for us - as if there was a choice!! The boys were, to use an quaint Australian expression "gobsmacked". We eventually got to GHAWA house but missed the team, so after gathering a few clothes we walked to the Arizona for a steak.
 
 
The Bajaj drivers are obviously not used to fares back to the diplomatic area of Dar where the hotel was located, so we had to ask the Maître D of Arizona to be our interpreter.A very reasonable fee was negotiated. The boys were rather unsure that the little 3 wheeler could accommodate the 3 of us plus the driver, and similarly unsure that the driver really knew where we were going - doubting Thomases!!
 
I booked a Bajaj tour of “the real” Dar es Salaam for their one free day. I didn’t think a cycle trip over very difficult terrain just before climbing a mountain would be appreciated. It was an amazing experience for us all. I highly recommend Afriroots Tours
 
 Waiting for the guides
 
January outlining the trip
Knickers for sale 
 
The Bajaj followed the same route as the cycle tour, taking in the “real” Dar es Salaam in the less salubrious areas of the city.  Here we were able to gain insight into the living conditions of families, and general lifestyle of majority of city dwellers. Anara, our small Masai guide for the Bajaj, and January on a bicycle with an American woman, were very knowledgeable about the history of Dar and made the tour extremely interesting. We all enjoyed the roadside coffee and peanut brittle, then the cup of masala chai and chapatti in the sea-container “café”. We visited a fruit and vegetable market then on to a mitumba clothing market where thousands of items of second  hand western clothing is sold to discerning buyers.  We talked to the local midwife/herbalist and observed the recycled items her son and daughter made to support the family, and had a swarm of children around for pichas.  At the local cinema (a hut with TV and DVDs translated into Swahili) we donated to a local football team and were heralded with much excitement and vuvuzela playing. At our final stop for a cold drink, Michael received a marriage proposal, from a rather lovely young lady who owned the refreshment bar with her brother. Look out Chelsee!!  I left the “boys” to head to work on Tuesday morning. Just like Perth really except after breakfast they were going to the mountain!
 

It is so lovely to see "my boys" albeit briefly.